Machine for making garment patterns



J. M. SHAPIRO MACHINE FOR MAKING GARMENT PATTERNS Sept. 19, 1950 2 Sheets-Sheet l U INVENTOR. Jose 0k Al. Sim m 0 ATTORNEYS Filed July 26, 1947 p 1950 J. M. SHAPIRO 2,523,153

MACHINE FOR MAKING GARMENT mmnus Filed July 26, 1947 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 IN V EN T 0R. Jose oh M Shapiro A TTORA/Z'KS' a continuous sheet of Patented Sept. 19, 1950 MACHINE FOR MAKING GARMENT PATTERNS Joseph M. Shapiro, Ridgefield, Conn. Application July 26, 1947, Serial No. 763,828

6 Claims.

The present invention is concerned with methods and equipment for the fabrication of garment pattern of thin paper.

It is among the objects of the invention to provide methods and machine installations for the above purpose by which the pattern, substantially regardless of the number and shape of itscomponent blanks, is cut automatically and in rapid sequence. from a continuous roll, wholly dispensing withthe need for manually guiding a cutter about the outlines of the patterns and for stacking individual sheets preliminary to such cutting operation. i

Among other objects is to provide a reliable method and a relatively simple and rugged machine installation for maintaining adequate control over the individual relatively flimsy pattern blanks after they are sheared from the sheet, and collecting the sets of blanks making up a pattern, and for folding the same rapidly and reliably to the desired size of package, all without manual intervention.

'According to one feature of the invention the various blanks making up a pattern are cut from 7 paper by a shearing action between two shearing and feed rollers that advance the paper stock sheet, desirably from a roll. ,The rollers compris a die roller having shallow depressions therein distributed over the cylindrical surface thereof and corresponding in size and shape to the various blanks that make vup the pattern and the coacting punch roller has correspondingly thin raised areas to mesh with the depressions in the die roller so that as the paper stock is'fed between the two rollers, the pattern is blanked progressively in the rotation of the rollers and the severed blanks become lodged in the respective depressions of the die roller. Preferably the sheet is first passed between printing rollers that imprint the outline of the patterns and all other'insignia upon the sheet preparatory to passing the same between the shearing rollers in registry with such printed areas.

Another feature is to collect the blanks that make up a complete pattern preparatory to folding the same. This may be accomplished by stripping the blanks from the depressions of the die roller, preferably pneumatically, and depositing upon a platform preparatoryto folding the same, the set of diverse blanks that makes a complete pattern.

Another feature is a sequence of automatic folding operations, desirably by means of an installation comprising a platform centrally split 2 with an associated blade thereabove that descends and thereby folds the set of blanks along a fold line, feed means advancing the folded sheet to the next similar folding platform whose fold is in the samedirection or at right angles tothe direction of the first fold, the folding operations being-of number and direction adapted to the size of package desired.

In the accompanying drawings in which are shown one or more of various possible embodiments of the several features of the invention:

Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic, perspective view of the equipment, i

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary transverse sectional view ona larger scale through the contact region a of the shearing rollers,

Fig. 3 is a diagrammatic end elevation part of the folding installation,

Figs. 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 illustrate thesuccessive stages in the folding of a typical set of blanks that constitutes a pattern,

Fig. 9 is a plan view showing on stage of the packaging operation, and v Figs. 10 and 11 are developed plan views of the cylindrical surface respectively, of the die roller and the punch roller.

Referring now to the drawings and particularly to Fig. 1 thereof, the paper P is fed in a continuous strip from a roll (not shown) between printing roller I 2 and pressur roller:l3, the former having distributed about the cylindrical surface thereof the printing conformation M which includes the outlines of the various blanks making up a pattern and any printed directions or other insignia commonly used on such patterns. The printing roller is'inked in conventional manner from an inkingroller l5 and may imprint the sheet directly, as shown, or by way of an offset roller (not shown) in manner which is evident to those skilled in the art.

The sheet with the recurrent pattern 14 that is thus imprinted thereon in the continuous rotation of rollers l2 and I3 is passed between a pair of shearing rollers. These rollers include a die roller I6 which is desirably, though not necessarily, the lower of the rollers and a coacting punch roller IT. The die roller has formed inthe cylindrical surface thereof, and arranged to border the printed outlines l4 made by the printing roller l2, shallow depressions I8 corresponding in outline as to size and shape to the diverse blanks that make up the complete pattern. The punch roller l1 hasthinraised areas I9 which correspond precisely in'size,shape, outline and arrangement with the depressions I8 of the die roller so that in the operation of the machine the two coacting rollers will press the intervening sheet across the width thereof and act to feed the same forward. At the same time the raised portions IQ of the punch roller will enter and mesh accurately with the depressions 18 of the die roller and thereby progressively effect the shearing of the sheet and the lodging of the severed blanks within-the respective depressions of the die roller. Figs. and 11 show the developed surface of the die roller and the punch roller, respectively, illustratively showing a blouse pattern with the various blanks for .a complete pattern distributed over the cylindrical surfaces of the respective rollers.

While the rollers may be made in other ways, it is preferred to form the depressions-on the die roller from a single thin rectangular die sheet 20 of metal, desirably in the orderof .002 inch in thickness, from which the respective .patterniareas 18 have beentblankedout. Th die sheet thus "blanked out is,iafter-suitable hardening welde'duponzaijacket sheet:2-0 0f appropriate'metaL'an'd said jacket sheet :20 is enveloped :about thecorei l'fi'ofethe die roller and removably 'clamp'edto thelatter'by means-conventional in theiprinting arts and therefore not shown. vThus the Shearing walls'of the-depressions 8 are along the .cut thickness :.of the die sheet 21] and the .jacket :sheet 20f upon the dieroller forms the floor of ach-depression i=8 .Similarly the blanks il9 ofsheet :metal, previously @cut from the "die sheet 20 (or blanks identical therewith) 'and-suit- :ably hardenedareproperly distributed and weld- .ed :to a Jacket sheet +9 of appropriate metal and said jacket sheet is removablyafiixed toth( .core Fl oflthe puncht roller .in the same manner as is the jacket sheet zllfluponthe-die roller, so that the blanks -l19 upon the punch roller are :posi-tionedfor proper registry with the depressions formed in the die-roller.

- The .unitar-y mutilated sheet P which remains after the blanks have been cut-therefrom, is desirablywithdrawmbypassing between a'conveyor 4 I thereunder and a series 'of horizontal rollers 4| desirably felt coveredand extending"parallel "torthe shearing rollers,-thus frictionally feeding .the flimsy blanked out remnant P "of the con- .tinuous she'et'to feed thesame to "er-collecting -roller(not shown) 'whichmay be appropriately driven.

Inasmuch as .the blanks of paper making'up the 'patterni arequitezfiimsm they' 'are apt, in the absence of'means for :stripping them off, to remain in the respective -die depressions of the die roller. 'Pneumaticimeans'is-shown for such :stripping purpose. Preferably-this means comprises a'pipetz-l longitudinallyof'the die roller it -(ofrtubestock'several inches thick), and'near the inner wall thereof. PipeaZl *isrsubstantially immovably fixed somewhat in advance of the region of tangency and therefore ofshearing between the two-rotating -shearing rollers Iii-and i1 and has outwardl directed apertures 2 I distributed along the length "thereof. The perforated pipe Z-l is supplie'd'with compressed air-through a pipe 2-2iaxially'of the dielroller l6 feedin through a radial-elbow:length 23 into theinlet end of said pip '2l. The-entire cylindricalarea of the die roller-l-6 is foraminated as at 24 with numerous small closelyrdistributedtradial bores which register with-:correspondingforamination 24' in the cmplaced jacket 'sheet :20. The areas of the depressions t8. inithe'zdie sheet 20 expose said foraminations,ttheeunperforated; areas of said die 4 sheet covering those perforations 24 not within the confines of the respective die depressions.

In advance of the die roller [6 is a platform desirably in the form of an intermittent conveyor 25, upon which the set of blanks making up the pattern is deposited as a result of the pneumatic stripping and blowing action. The larger blanks will be advanced relatively little by reason of their "greater weight under the pneumatic blowing action and the smaller blanks will be advanced somewhat further so that the various blanks making up the complete pattern cut out in each complete-revolution of the shearing rollers will be deposited in a batch or set, as approximately suggested in Fig. 4, as they leave the shearing rollers. 'The intermitten conveyor, desirably in the form of .a beltconveyor 25, is timed to advance only after a complete revolution of the shearing die rollers 16, ll, so as to shift the collected set of sheets making up a complete pattern to a folding platform 26 adjacent thereto, :an intervening perforated air pipe Z-Hassuring the smooth delivery thereof upon theJsaid-tfolding platform without wrinkling. is'aidzfolding platform desirably has a median ilongitudinal :opening 28 accommodating "a pair of coacting rfoldin'g rollers 29 lengthwise of itheiplatform, the bearing mounts 30 of which'aretdesirably.infthe end portions of said'platform. flherrollersdQ may beconstantly rotated inwardlyso thatitheyiwill, upon the timed fdescent of=a folding blade 3l normally directly above the lineof 'tangency iofrtherollers, fold. and feed downward the set of blankszmaking up'the pattern. Desirablyrthe rollerst 29i-are connected withra. downwardzfeed'which may be pairs of additional horizontaltrollers' 32 'and '33 driven to propel the longitudinally ifol'de'd-set of patterns downward'to'aconveyort3'4 which may be constantly operated itoz'feed the previously folded set of sheets forwardzforranotherifolding operation. Where the se'cond'tfold 'iszto be at right angles' to the first fold, the CGIIVBYOT'J'34'I'C16HV6IS toanother horizontal conveyor belt "35 rextending :at right angles thereto,-an-.interveningi erforated air pipe '36*assuring the reliable "delivery :o'fthe "folded sheets thereto. The .conveyor belt 35in' turn feeds to a second foldinggp'latformtii'l aligned therewith, and across an interveningperforated air pipe 38. The rollers 3'9 of platform 63! r'extend at right angles .to "rollers F29 is!) that the action 'will of course :"be to fold Ithe previousl folded 'set of blanks makingu'p'thepattern along a line at right angles :to ithexfirstvfold. IItwill be understood that 'in like: manner further "folding platforms, each rtconn-ected to"the=ipreviousJone by a feed suchcas 2,733, 'fl would'beutilized to fold the set or blanks makingupthepattern along lines and in *direction such that the pattern is folded to-the'sizeiof packagefsuitable-for introduction into the particu'larenvelope in which the pattern is to bei'enclosed.

The folds mee'd not :necessarily alternate at right angles to *each otherbut there mightbe cases in which two or more consecutive folds are made,-.eithe'r longitudinally or transversely of the stacked patterns. -Whent-any fOldilSiIl direction at right angles .totthetprevious one, there would be'inadditi'on toxfeed 32,; '33l'and'conveyor 34, a further interposed TCOIIVEYOI belt such as 35 to change the direction 'ofzpropulsion ofthe partly folded pattern. It \will'rbe :understood that the sequence of folding platforms would besset up in accordance with the;particularirpattern' to be cut andpackaged.

:Illustratively, .Eig. 1'4 shows the =set of blanks making up a typical pattern, as deposited upon platform '25. "Fig. 5-showsthat blank foldedonce the folding along the line d-d of Fig." 7, prepaiatdry tointroduction into envelope 40, shown in'FisQ-Q. I j 1 "While the pattern shown is-a relatively simple -fo'r a'blouse, it will be understood that the iiivntien lends itself to the cutting and packagi g-{ offfairly elaborate patterns involving many d 'ers yshaped blanks, it being understood of:

course that the cylindrical surface area of each: shearing roller would have tobe sufficient to accommodate *the vari'ous blanksto be cut there-- from. Manifestly if the pattern is too elaborate to beaccommodated on oneset of shearing rollers of practicable diametenfit might be prepared from two'or more sets of such rollers indistinct operations and the two or more sets of collected and folded patterns could then be introduced into a single package.

While the operation is apparent from the foregoing description, it may be briefly summarized as follows:

The continuous sheet P of paper from a roll progressively passes between rollers l2 and [3 for imprint of the pattern and other insignia thereon and then passes between the die roller l6 and the punch roller H. In the shearing operation, as best suggested in Fig. 2, each raised portion 19 of the punch roller presses the paper into the corresponding depression I8 of the die roller at its forward edge, and byreason of thesnug fit of the punch l9 into the corresponding die cavity IS, the paper is sheared near the forward edge thereof and as the rotation of the rollers proceeds, the paper is sheared in the general direction of rotation along the periphery of the respective blanks to be formed, each blank being completely out out and forced into the corresponding depression 18 as the trailing end of the die depression leaves the-associated end of the raised portion IQ of thepunch roller I1. The compressed air through the axle Z2, elbow 23, and pipe 2| blows through the otherwise open perforations 24 that are covered by the respective paper blanks in the die roller depresslons I 8.

Accordingly, as the advance end of each die depression comes into registry with the p1pe 2|, the paper blank is stripped off and out, as suggested at B in Figs. 1 and 2. As each die de-,

pression passes completely beyond the perforated pipe 2| in the rotation of the die roller, the cor-- I responding blank B is entrained by the expelled air and then isdeposited upon the intermittent conveyor 25. Thus the various blanks formed in one revolution of the coacting shearing rollers I and I! are deposited in a set, such as shown in Fig. 4. By reason of the fact that the smaller blanks such as b are lighter than the larger ones, they willbe propelled further by the expelled air so that various blanks making up the pattern will substantially cross the median line a-a shown in Fig. 4. The mutilated unitary rem- .nant sheet P initiallydrawn manually over the conveyor 4i and held by rollers 4| is withdrawn as theblanks are cut therefrom by winding the forth to fold the pattern same upon the appropriately driven collecting roller therefor (not shown).

As soon as the shearing rollers have made a complete turnand the complete set of blanks B has been deposited upon conveyor 25, the latter is caused to advance to deliver the set of blanks to thefolding platform 26. Thereupon the blade 3| in its timed action is caused to descend for the first folding operation and the folded blanks are passed along by feed 32, 33 to conveyor belt 34 and thence to transverse conveyor belt 35 to the next folding platform 3! and for transverse fold, thence onward in the manner previously set to the size of package desired.

As many'changes could be made in the above method, machine and installation, and many apparently widely different embodiments of this invention could be made without departing from the scope of the claims, it is intended that all matter contained in the above description or shown in'the accompanying drawings shall be interpreted as illustrative and sense. H

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. In an installation for automatically producing garment patterns, the combination of a pair of coacting rollers including a die roller having shallow depressions distributed over the cylindrical area thereof corresponding in size and shape to the respective blanks that make a complete pattern, a coacting punch roller having thin raised portions distributed over its surface to correspond accurately in size and shape to and to mesh with the die depressions and thereby in operation progressively to shear blanks from a continuous sheet fed between the rollers and to press these blanks into the die depressions, said die roller being foraminated, and pneumatic pressure discharge means within the die roller directed substantially along and somewhat in advance of the line of engagement between said rollers, progressively to strip the severed blanks from said die roller as they are sheared from the strip.

2. In an installation for fabricating garment patterns, a pair of coacting shearing rollers comprising a die roller and a coacting punch roller, the die roller having plurality of shallow depressions in its cylindrical surface of diverse size and shape corresponding to the various blanks making up a complete pattern, the punch roller having corresponding thin raised portions on its cylindrical surface meshing with the depressions of the die roller, a conveyor in advance of said rollers for withdrawing the unitary remnant of the sheet from which the recurring sets of blanks making up the recurring patterns are cut, pneumatic means for stripping the blanks lodged in the respective depressions of the die roller, and intermittent conveyor means adjacent the die roller upon which the set of blanks making up a pattern is collected preparatory to advance thereof by the conveyor.

3. The combination recited in claim 2 in which the stripping action is effected by means of a perforated tube within and adjacent the inner surface of the die roller in substantially fixed position somewhat in advance of the region of contact between the two shearing rollers, in which the cylindrical surface of the die roller is foraminated and in which compressed air is forced not in a limiting through itheipipe byaiway ofvan'. inlet coaxial with the die roller.

' 4. {Ihe "combination :set :forth .in :claim 2 in whichrthe dierrollerhas a jacket sheet :removably affixe'd-ther.eon,-and-a thinhar'dened metaldie sheet-is rigidly aifixediupon :the outer faced the jacket sheet, said die sheet having apertures therethrough ofsize and shape'corresponding to the various blanksrmaking =up'-a complete pat- .tern,:and the pressure roller has a jacket :sheet removably affixed thereon, the'variousblanks cut from-the jacket of the die roller being: rigidly affixed'upon the outer face of said'jacket sheet.

. -,5.- The"rol1er shearing device claimed in claim 4 in which the die roller and the corresponding jacket sheet are-foraminatei the die sheet closing allioraminatedareas except'those exposed through its blank-shaped apertures.

, v6. .The combination set forth in claim 2 in whichrsaid die roller is foraminated and said pneumatic pressure discharge means are-within the die roller and directed substantially along and: somewhat in advance of the line of engagement between said rollers whereby when air is blown through said. discharge means-the severed 8 blanks will :be progressivel stripped from said die roller as they are sheared from the strip JOSEPH M. SHAPIRO.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record 'in the file of this .patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 272,308 Olmstead Feb. 13, 1883 787,357 Davis, Apr. 18, 1905 1,191,297 Gardner July 148, 1916 1,202,122 Swift Oct. 24, 1916 1,744,292 Young Jan. 21, 1930 1,760,819 Christophel May 27, 1930 2,144,980 Johanson Jan. 24, 1939 2,150,016 Wood Mar. 7, 1939 2,151,703 Kaplan Mar. 28, 1939 2,302,855 Hallman Nov. 24, 1942 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 523 Great Britain Feb. 29, 1856 124,239 Great Britain Mar. 27, 1919 

